Category: spain travel

Visit Toledo in one day

This ain’t the Toledo in Ohio…

Working on a travel blog in times of global pandemic, travel bans and quarantines is the kind of thing that can prompt calls for a mental health wellness check, but here we are.

I mean, it wouldn’t be the first time, so do your worst.

But for those of us who are stricken by the mental illness we call wanderlust, just because we’re not traveling at the moment doesn’t mean we’re not thinking about going places.

Quite the opposite, in fact.

Who among us hasn’t thought about being elsewhere lately?

Who among us hasn’t thought about sending whoever we’re in quarantine with elsewhere? Somewhere far, far away – or perhaps just a mere six feet down? (PARODY! SATIRE! A JOKE!)

But as they say, this too shall pass. We will escape our housemates and our families, we will escape the same dreary view and boredom and stress, and we will travel again – although it’ll no doubt be with increased health-related security requirements. We’re likely to face mandatory use of masks, temperature checks, self-quarantine upon arrival and other precautions.

I’m fully down with all of that.

I think I’m not alone in saying I’m ready to travel somewhere, anywhere – provided it can be done with relative safety and in a responsible manner.

Visiting Toledo, Spain: The History of Toledo

So! Having said all that, I have been pining for Spain and thinking back on my first time visiting the Iberian Peninsula.

One of my favorite tourist day trips was visiting Toledo, a gem of a historic town near Madrid, and well worth taking a day to fully explore. Known for its widely renowned Toledo swords, Toledo, Spain is also known as the Imperial City as it was home of the primary venue of the court of King Charles V the Holy Roman Emperor. Toledo, Spain is also known as the City of Three Cultures, as there are strong ties interwoven throughout its history and architecture to Christian, Muslim and Jewish faiths.

When you arrive on your visit to Toledo, you’ll immediately see why this city has been such an important strategic stronghold for a grab-bag of civilizations spanning 2,000 years of history. That’s because it’s situated atop a rocky hill, protected on three sides by the river Tagus. In the ensuing millennia, various rulers added imposing walls and fortifications, making it a tough candidate for full frontal attack.

In fact this spot has been an important trading hub dating back to centuries before the Christian era began, when the Romans called it Toletum.

After Rome’s influence waned, Toledo was ruled for a couple of centuries by the Visigoths, and then by the Moors until the late 11^th century when Spain retook the city. After that, Spain made Toledo the nation’s capital, where it remained until the city reached the physical limits of its potential growth in the 1500s and the court was moved to Madrid.

Visiting Toledo: World Heritage Site

Despite enduring repeated wars over the centuries, Toledo is nonetheless so unique, historical, charming and well-preserved that UNESCO recognized the entire town as a world heritage site in 1986.

But visiting Toledo you’ll note right away that the city is impressive not only in terms of how unspoiled it is architecturally, but also for the fact that three major world religions have had an influence here for millennia, each of which can be seen in the architecture and development of the city.

There has always been a large Jewish population in Toledo, dating back to Roman times. Historic synagogues rub shoulders with mosques constructed during the Moorish reign, along with numerous Christian edifices, including one of the Gothic era’s most stunning Christian cathedrals.

Hit that cardio before coming to Toledo

The Toledo train station is just a short 20-minute walk from the old part of the city, and there’s an escalator to take you up there that’s located near the Puerta de Alfonso VI, on the old town’s north side. There’s also a city bus you can catch right there at the train station if you prefer.

But I, along with most of the people who rolled off my train, just walked straight in and up after crossing the pedestrian-only Puente de Alcántara Bridge. It’s a picturesque walk, and it’s not like you’re going to be able to avoid hills here anyway. It’s enough to give you a bit of a cardio workout, but honestly it’s not too terrible.

The truth is you could easily spend hours just randomly wandering these winding, narrow streets and seeing what you see and not be disappointed with how you spent your day. But at any rate, here are a few highlights among the places to visit in Toledo, Spain.

1. Puente de Alcántara Bridge

As mentioned above, this bridge in itself and the view from it before you even get into the city proper is stunning all on its own. If you’re familiar with the Spanish language, you may also note that ‘puente’ is Spanish for bridge, so the Anglicization here by adding ‘bridge’ at the end is a bit silly.

However, it gets even more ridiculous, as the word ‘alcantara’ is derived from the Arabic word al-QanTarah which means…you guessed it: bridge.

So what we have here is the Bridge of Bridge Bridge.

Whatever you call it, this bridge has lasted in one form or another since the Romans constructed it, although it has suffered damage from periodic warfare over the years. It’s always been reconstructed from the same locally quarried rock and today it offers stunning views of the surrounding countryside and a fairytale portal into Toledo.

2. Zocodover Plaza

Once you make your way up and into the city on this route as you visit Toledo, you’ll pass a statue of Cervantes and the Arco de la Sangre and emerge in Zocodover Plaza, the bustling marketplace and natural hub of the city. It’s a good place to take a moment to catch your breath and get your bearings, and there’s tons of tourist-oriented shops, fast food and cafes on the square.

But even just grabbing a seat on a bench and doing some people-watching – perhaps while enjoying a discreet beer, dirtbag traveler-style – is fun too.

It’s easy to imagine this scene across the centuries, variously as the commercial heart of the Spanish capital, and before that as a Moorish souk, and before that a Visigoth marketplace, and before that a Roman trading post.

Little has changed when you get right down to it; a hodgepodge of dialects pierces the air as shopkeepers ply their wares and cautious, herd-like groups of people who are visiting Toledo from all over the world poke around and assess potential purchases. Apart from the clothing and the specific items and foods people are clamoring to buy and sell, you’re not seeing anything much different from what a Roman or Visigoth or Moorish trader saw centuries ago.

The town’s tourist office is also on Zocodover Plaza if you’re into that sort of thing, but to me the attraction of ancient places like Toledo is just to wander and get lost among the winding, narrow streets and see what there is to discover on your own.

3. Alcázar de Toledo

There has been some kind of fortification on this spot for at least 2,000 years, but it got its name when it was rebuilt as an al-qasr (fortress) in the 10^th century. This building was later reconstructed by Christians after the reconquista, and still later as the castle that was to be home to the royal family of Carlos I.

But by the time it was completed the fickle royals had buggered off to Madrid and taken the capital with them. It’s nonetheless a stunning building, unique for having each of its four main outer walls designed in a different style, each adhering to the particular Renaissance period in which it was constructed.

Today it’s home to a spacious and informative military museum and offers stunning views of the city and surrounding landscape. You could easily spend a couple of hours here.

4. Santa Iglesia Catedral Primada de Toledo

With all the intertwined religious history here, you just knew we couldn’t avoid houses of worship for long. Might as well start with the Toledo Cathedral, a massive structure where you can spend at least a couple hours. One of Spain’s best examples of High Gothic architecture, this impressive edifice was begun in 1226 but not completed for over 200 years subsequently. As of pre-Covid-19 times, it was €10 to enter the Toledo Cathedral, complete with audio guide, but worth every shiny little Euro-penny as you can lose yourself exploring all kinds of nooks and crannies, and admiring the opulent artwork and interiors.

5. Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes

One of the top favorite things to do in Toledo is to see this gorgeous monastery, a former 15th-century church now run by Franciscan monks. It features impressive, ornate galleries and overlooks the Puente de San Martin on the city’s western side. The interior courtyard and gardens are a popular retreat, a wonderful little respite on a hot summer day, so add it to your list of places to visit in Toledo.

However if you find yourself running out of coin for paid entrances to places in Toledo like this, just wandering around this sector is great. It’s the former Jewish Quarter, and you’ll see numerous synagogues and homes and other buildings adorned with Hebrew lettering.

6. Museo del Greco

If you head southeast from the Monastery through the Jewish Quarter, you’ll run into the museum built in the reconstructed home of the artist El Greco, one of the top sites for people visiting Toledo, Spain – not least because the entry fee is a mere €3. There are lovely gardens and nicely laid-out galleries of some of the work the artist did once he settled here in Toledo.

But perhaps one of the best highlights of the structure is that it was built on top of the cellars of a 14^th century palace, constructed by Samuel Levi, the treasurer of King Pedro I ‘The Cruel’ of Castile. The brickwork and below-ground chambers are really fascinating for history buffs.

You can take a nice break from your visit to Toledo and grab a seat in the Parque el Tránsito just to the south of the museum, where there are artisanal craftspeople selling their wares, musicians, a kid’s playground area and stunning views.

7. Synagogue el Tránsito

Pedro the Cruel and Levi were also instrumental in the construction of the nearby Synagogue el Tránsito, considered one of Spain’s most important historic Jewish buildings. It’s a pristine example of Mudéjar architecture, with exquisite Arabic and Hebrew calligraphy, intricate stucco walls and a gorgeous larchwood ceiling, an absolute must on your list of what to do in Toledo Spain.

The building also contains the Sephardic Museum where you can learn about the history of Judaism in Spain dating back to the 5^th century B.C.

8. The Mosque of the Christ of Light

If you find the name of this building near the Puerta del Sol confusing, you’re not alone. But by now it should be apparent that some mixing and mingling of religious influences in this uniquely hybridized place is to be expected.

As the oldest building in the historic district of Toledo, built in 999 A.D. under the Caliphate, this mosque is no exception. It was converted to a Catholic church a couple hundred years later, and today visitors can see the ancient stones that make up the original structure. In itself the building is rather small and not terribly imposing, but the gardens are lovely and worth a stroll even for those who for some reason are unimpressed with being able to touch a 1,000-year-old wall.

Getting to Toledo, Spain

(Presented with the caveat that this info is from “The Before Times.”)

Traveling from Atocha Station in Madrid, the high-speed AVE train to Toledo takes around 33 minutes. It’s a comfortable and picturesque jaunt into the nearby countryside that’ll run you just over €21 round-trip. Be aware that when you purchase a round-trip or return ticket, you have to specify your return time in advance.

You can also drive the 70 km route in about an hour, depending on traffic, taking the A-42 highway.

There are also Alsa buses that run from the Plaza Elíptica station in Madrid every 30 minutes until 21:30, and which cost just under €10 round-trip for about a one-hour journey.

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